exfoliation - good or bad?

We are hearing a lot about the skin barrier in the skincare world. For a long time, we were damaging it by overusing products and treatments, but now it's gaining attention and we are learning the importance of preserving it. So, what exactly is the "barrier function," and how does exfoliation contribute to its maintenance?

Let's begin with the fundamentals of skin. Skin acts as a genuine barrier. It is our largest organ and functions to create a boundary between the external environment and our internal organs. Our skin cells are constantly turning over, shedding, and revealing new skin cells. However, as we age this slows from about 2 weeks in young adults to around 3 months in adults 50 years or older.

In the 80's skincare companies really leaned in to exfoliation and created products that sped up the shedding of dead skin cells, often to the detriment of the barrier of the skin. The exfoliators were too harsh, using ingredients that created inflammation and a break down in the function of the skin. I loved St. Ives apricot scrub in middle school because it felt like it was doing something. It was! It was destroying my protective skin barrier and making my teenage acne worse.

Exfoliation can be categorized into two types: manual and chemical. Manual exfoliation involves using physical methods to remove dead skin. This can include using a facial brush or an abrasive scrub. These exfoliators generally target the outermost layer of dead skin cells. While mechanical exfoliation can sometimes be too harsh for sensitive skin, oatmeal - especially oat flour, is an excellent manual exfoliation suitable for all skin types. Chemical exfoliation involves the use of acids and/or enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells. Chemical exfoliators are able to penetrate and turn over dead skin cells at a deeper level. Glycolic acid, lactic acid, pineapple enzyme, and pumpkin enzyme are all examples of chemical exfoliation.

How does exfoliation contribute to maintaining our skin barrier health? It's all about balance! We want to remove dead skin cells to enhance product absorption, while also clearing pores, reducing hyperpigmentation, evening out skin tone, and diminishing fine lines. However, we need to do it in a way that preserves our barrier function and avoids inflammation, which can accelerate skin aging.

As a general rule, chemical exfoliation is a better option for most skin types. Unless you have very thick (sturdy!) skin that can take a lot. However, as discussed above I love oat flour as a mechanical exfoliation. You can buy oat flour at the grocery store or simply make your own by putting oatmeal in a blender and creating a fine flour. I like to mix oat flour with Manuka honey for a mechanical (oats) + chemical (honey enzymes) exfoliation.

Here are a few of my favorite exfoliating products that remove dead skin cells to reveal fresh glowing skin, without damaging your barrier. These exfoliating products are good for sensitive/reactive skin types, as well.

LIVE BOTANICAL RESURFACING OIL

This is a really unique formula! It is an exfoliation treatment and much more!

Exfoliates + boosts collagen + hydrates + protects new skin cells! It is a leave on product, making it super simple to use.

Key Ingredients: 10% pineapple enzymes, shitake mushrooms, rose-hip fruit, radish seed, blue tansy, castor seed oils, and rice bran.

Use on top of water based serums followed with a balm or moisturizer. I like to use 3-5 times a week or more if I am feeling my skin is dull, congested, or dehydrated.

How I am using:

Cleanse + Lilfox Dewy Bean Dream + Lilfox Marshmallow Poof + Live Botanical Overnight Resurfacing Oil + Live Botanical Rooted Balancing Balm

LIVE BOTANICAL OASIS ENZYME MASK

Loaded with essential vitamins for the skin (A, C, E), this mask exfoliates brightens, evens out skin tone, repairs UV damaged skin cells, and soothes dry + irritated skin. This is an amazing post summer skin treatment!

Key Ingredients: Prickly pear flowers, chia seeds, mulberry + kinnikinnick extract, carrot + tomato + cranberry extracts, and yerba santa.

This mask is a chemical exfoliation that can also be used as a mechanical exfoliation when used as a gommage (rolling) treatment.

How to use: Use 1-3 x week. Massage into skin and leave on skin about 10-15 minutes. For a more active exfoliation, massage into skin for about 2 minutes, let sit on skin for about 5 minutes, gently roll off the gel. This rolling can take a few minutes to fully remove, but will boost the exfoliation process.

LILFOX ACID GLOW

This is called a "rapid retexture peel" for a reason! It is a powerful, clinical strength, active exfoliation. However it does not damage the barrier of the skin, because the 5 acid blend (GLYCOLIC, LACTIC, CITRIC, TARTARIC, SALICYLIC) is blended with exotic botanicals that provide a surge of hydration and are anti-inflammatory.

Simply apply for 5 minutes and then remove with a warm wash cloth. This is hands down the most active, highly effective, at home peel I have used before. What you will notice is smoother skin, brighter skin, less congestion, more even pigment, and an instant rosy glow! Even sensitive skin types can use this treatment by allowing it to remain on the skin for a shorter period. Start with 2 minutes and work up to 5 minutes as your skin becomes stronger.

So, is exfoliation good or bad? I believe it is beneficial and essential for removing dead skin cells, allowing products to penetrate deeper to repair damaged skin cells, hydrate, and nourish the skin more effectively. However, it's important not to overdo it, as excessive exfoliation can lead to inflammation, irritation, and accelerated skin aging.

It is also important to recognize season change brings skincare routine change. While it is still blazing hot in Austin, the humidity today was 80% and tomorrow it is going to be 50%. I cannot wait! But, even this slight shift makes our skin drier, and our barrier more challenged. Eczema is more prone to flare in the fall and winter than it is in the warmer months. So, as fall and winter approach we want to be more gentle with our exfoliation. This might mean you just use your exfoliation once a week instead of 3x/week or it might mean that you go with an exfoliating product that is more hydrating. And, you follow your exfoliation with more hydration. In the summer months it might be enough to just apply an oil. But, in the fall and winter we want to layer! Serums, oils, mists, and creams - yes to all of it!